Island to island

Is your summer moving as fast as mine? It feels a bit surreal, with enormous waves of tourists to Peaks Island, and smoky skies blowing east. Yet summer sails on. This drawing as well as prints and books will be available this Sunday during the Fifth Maine’s Art Walk from 10 am to 3 pm. Depending upon the weather I will either be on my corner at the intersection of Trefethen and Pleasant OR I may set up inside my front door. Stay tuned, I hope to see you here!

Recently Marty and I celebrated our 33rd anniversary with another moto adventure, this one to Vinalhaven. We explore other islands whenever we can, and our visit there four years ago remains a favorite. Peaks has been feeling mighty crowded and Vinalhaven beckoned.

We left Peaks last Wednesday via ferry and rode the rural route to Rockland, past open fields and farms, and lo and behold, a lane I couldn’t resist. My new picture book, SKYWATCHER, will be out October 5 with stars galore.

We arrived at our lodging, the lovely Lindsey Guest House, just off the main street, our favorite place to stay in Rockland.

We unloaded our saddle bags and roamed around town, where we spied this fun mural, Water Town, by Alexis Iammarino and Melissa Luk, with help from the community.

Rockland bills itself as an Art Capital and even the signs have good form.

It was remarkably quiet for a summer evening, with many shops closed by 5 PM, apparently because of staffing. But we found a wine shop open! We took our find back to the courtyard behind the inn.

We walked a block or two for dinner at the busy Ada’s Kitchen, where I spotted Matinicus author Eva Murray!

This was an incredible surprise, since our paths rarely cross. We’re two island girls whose picture book, Island Birthday, won a Lupine Award in 2015. Hooray for a little reunion at the bar.

Before checking out the next day, I sketched a little still life in our room, because. It’s the little details that make the Lindsey so sweet.

That, and Raleigh’s homemade cinnamon donuts!

We visited the Center for Maine Contemporary Art where there’s a spectacular exhibit of paintings and sculptures by David Row.

There’s also a cool group show, Will o’ the Wisp, that features an immersive blend of “speculative futures and ecology.”

I really fell for this piece by Kelsey Halliday Johnson, with all the fungi and bark.

We had to make the 1 PM ferry to Vinalhaven. Whereas Peaks Island, at just under a square mile, gets (this season) 15 boats a day, Vinalhaven, at 24 square miles, gets 6 boats a day. These two islands make a contrast of scale to access and tourism density. The trip is an hour and 15 minutes and we enjoyed every minute of sun and sparkly seas.

It’s a short ride to the Tidewater Motel, where we made ourselves at home on the deck facing Carver’s Harbor.

Of course, we brought our art supplies!

With rain in the forecast, we opted to stroll around the harbor. Even without sunshine, Vinalhaven is colorful.

We happened upon the Creelman Farm Store, thanks to these gorgeous tea towels hanging in the window. We met the owner and cheesemaker, Erin, who milks her ten goats twice a day. We bought her goat cheese, too, highly recommend!

The rain rolled in and we shuffled down to the Sand Bar, where the locals made us feel plenty welcome.

After a pretty stormy night, the sun broke out for our anniversary exchange of cards and gifts on the deck. Marty always surprises me with his buoyant humor and graphic style.

Riding the motorcycles around winding roads with glimpses of the shore, we stopped at a cove overlooking North Haven.

Island life may look pretty but it’s hard on everyone.

We found the old lighthouse at Browns Head, tucked below the hill.

Time for gas at the Fisherman’s Coop, and another excuse to take a picture of our vintage Hondas.

We did a little more hanging out on our private deck, best spot ever.

Soon we headed for our dinner reservation, taking in more iconic sights along the Main Street.

This building looks way better than we last saw it four years ago. Since then, Robert Indiana died, and Vinalhaven has brought his Star of Hope back to it’s former glory, with considerable community effort and pride. Bravo! There’s a great story in the Island Journal by Phil Crossman, owner of the Tidewater, about this effort.

We had a marvelous anniversary date at Dot & Millie’s across the street. Formerly the Haven, it’s had a sweet refresh.

We even got dressy! Marty wore his present, a shirt from Portland’s own Loquat Shop.

It’s not visible but I am wearing his gift, a locket necklace by Peaks Island artist, Carol Cartier. And may I suggest you order the Lobster Papparadelle? Soooo good.

It was hard to part with our deck the next morning. Watching the harbor activity was all we wanted to do. The dog in the bow barked an announcement all the way.

The Tidewater straddles the tidal opening which flows beneath the building twice a day.

We boarded the 10:30 ferry to Rockland, vowing to be back and stay longer.

We made a quick stop at the Farnsworth to see Betsy Wyeth’s collection.

This is a great spot before you hit the road.

We rode back the same route, and missed the 5:35 ferry. Dang. But we got in some bridespotting! This couple was waiting to board a schooner for their ceremony. Congratulations, lovebirds, may your marriage be as sweet as ours has been.

We are still savoring this Vinalhaven adventure, as the summer swings towards fall. I’m back to my drawing board now, thanks for reading!