Ireland Travels: Dunquin

We are back from a swell trip to Ireland in which we celebrated our daughter’s recent college graduation by returning to our favorite places discovered two years ago. Our evening flight began June 5, during which I sketched we three sheep, above.

We landed the next morning as fog blanketed the valleys. The passenger next to me noted that Air Force One was on the tarmac in Shannon. We saw evidence of political protest leaving the airport.

photo © Daisy Braun

It was too early to check into our lodgings, so we waited for the airport Starbucks to open at 8 AM, along with a swarm of Garda, which Marty captured in his sketchbook.

sketch © Marty Braun

We returned to the lovely Carrygerry Country House to nap for a bit and stroll the nearby fields.

A sign reads “thorough bred horses kick and bite” but how beautiful they are!

The first Guinness made the long trip so worth it.

On June 7 we drove down to the Dunquin Cottage, our home for the next 10 nights. My pastel here shows the long field behind the house.

Yes, there really was a row of cows greeting us!

We walked to the old pier just up the road, where cliffs meet the sea.

A crescent moon appeared over Inis Tuaisceart, a sight which inspired this Lunar Calendar cover.

Early mornings involved coffee and journal writing and sketching. Here’s Marty’s opening page.

Drawing © Marty Braun

I found some objects around the cottage for a quick still life.

Drawing © Jamie Hogan

We hiked up Clogher Head, our little goat scampering about.

We settled at Clogher Strand for a bit, long enough for me to do a quick pastel sketch.

Pastel © Jamie Hogan

Marty did this one later, in which he captured Daisy’s constant movement to our sedentary perches.

Sketch © Marty Braun

Daisy had disappeared for awhile and I found her exploring a cave.

She had discovered a beadlet anemone!

After some downtime at the cottage, we headed into Dingle. A Saturday night rainbow is a good sign.

We heard music at Paudie’s, John Benny’s, and O’Flaherty’s which was the most packed of them all.

The next morning I attempted to draw in the back yard but the neighbor’s new goat, Lucy, was ready to nibble my pant leg, my backpack, my stool, and my sketchbook!

I went back inside to sketch:( another still life from cottage objects of interest.

We headed back to Clogher Strand for a hike along the shore trail.

While Daisy hiked down to explore tide pools, I did this sketch of diagonals.

Drawing © Jamie Hogan

We spotted a bird that we later identified as an oyster catcher.

After dinner at the cottage, we walked to the beach, past this farm cat.

The neighbor has lots of cats who watched us daily.

On June 10, we ferried out to Great Blasket Island. It was one of the best times had during our last visit, and we enjoyed a great ride on the boat with just a few others.

The island was inhabited over many centuries, but the last islanders left in 1953. What remains is evidence of  rugged folk in a stunning setting. We climbed steep hills for a picnic.

Daisy headed up to the top while Marty and I headed below to the beach.

Ahh, relaxation.

Drawing © Jamie Hogan

After a couple of hours, Daisy returned to join us in the surf.

Upon return to the Dunquin pier, look! Bride spotting.

We headed to Ballyferriter to our favorite pub, Murphy’s.

The sun was setting around 10 PM each night, when a blaze of light would renew our energies for a late walk.

On June 11 we set out to find the Gallarus Oratory, a medieval structure near Smerwick Harbour. It was built by early Christians about 1300 years ago, a perfect example of dry rubble masonry.

In fact, all of the stone walls and architecture speak of the fierce tenacity of the Irish. We had to get gas in Dingle and decided to find out about Eask Tower. A local lady charged us 3 euros each to walk amidst the “sheep shite” and advised us to please close each gate. As we climbed up the hill, a rainbow made the view come alive.

More stone work! This was built in the 1800’s as a signal tower for ships to find the entrance to Dingle Harbor.

There’s a rainbow somewhere in this family selfie, I swear!

Marty documented our sights in his sketchbook later.

Drawing © Marty Braun

The next day we’d had lashing rain during the night. I tried drawing from the stone wall, but my bottom got wet pretty quick.

We lolled about, reading about ancient stone placement, writing letters, drawing and talking. Eventually we hiked to the remnants of the film location for Ryan’s Daughter.

The views here later led me to do this pastel.

Pastel © Jamie Hogan

The following day we hustled back to Dingle for an Eco Tour with the Great Blasket Boat. It was blustery but so very worth it! Another boat was watching Fungie, the resident male bottlenose dolphin who plays in the bay.

Our captain, Billy, brought the boat inside a couple of caves within the ocean cliffs.

After a rocking ride through the “most dangerous channel in the Irish seas” where many a Spanish ship had sunk, we debarked via a dingy onto Great Blasket. Once again, we had the beach to ourselves, if you don’t count the herd of seals basking on the beach.

photo © Daisy Braun

I’m really in my element here.

Here’s Billy back with our transport, which was no easy feat. No other boats had ventured to the Blasket that day but ours.

The seas were too rough to go farther out for whale sighting, but we bobbed about watching seals before returning to Dingle. We left the Peig Sayers full of stories and wet with salty spray. Thanks, Billy!

The day was complete with a concert at Siopa Ceoil, where the Duo played their hearts out. We fell in love with their music two years ago, and they brought down the house with their jigs and reels, apples and watermelons.

The intimate setting makes for a memorable time, and the evening included some bad jokes and an amazing dance performance by a young local girl. Whenever you are in Dingle, find a performance of the Duo!

We often enjoyed the warmth of the sun porch at the cottage. By this time, we needed to do laundry and the cottage appliances were kapoot.

On the way to the cleaner in Dingle, we found this mural, an ode to the Blasket islanders.

The sun returned as I walked the labyrinth behind the local church.

We did an after dinner hike as the moon rose.

Daisy’s the only one who reached the top and saw the view stretching to Ballydavid.

photo © Daisy Braun

The next day’s goal was simple:

Daisy’s entire trip was complete with Casserole in her arms.

While we chatted with the farmer, his sheep dog helped himself to the lamb feed. Down the road, along Slea Head Drive, Marty bought a CD from John Harte, a local musician.

We circled back later to Famine Farm for another sheep dog demo.

The cows did NOT like this exercise.

The sheep though.

We hung out at Coumeenoole Beach where a couple of hearty souls dunked in the surf.

Lucky Marty celebrated Father’s Day with handmade cards and a day of rambling about.

Card by Daisy Braun

Card by Jamie Hogan

A happy coincidence that our cards done on the sly both included sheep! We strolled to the Blasket Center down the road for their fabulous tuna melts on Irish bread.

With bellies full, we drove in search of Gallarus Castle, which is unmarked but can be found in the backyard of a house.

Built in the 15th century, it was the fortified home of the Fitzgerald family who lived there until the end of the 17th century. Knock all you want, nobody’s home now.

Back at the cottage, I sat outside for this quick study of changing light while Marty napped and Daisy went to the beach.

Pastel © Jamie Hogan

The skies are truly epic in Dunquin.

June 17 was our final morning at the cottage. I drew this still life and began packing up.

Drawing © Jamie Hogan

These are a few of our collected objects, including some wool from Great Blasket I plucked from the grass.

We said farewell to Lucy.

And to the backyard cats.

And to the stellar view. Many thanks to Chris and Nan Hadden for our charmed stay!

From here we headed to the Rock of Cashel. Stay tuned for the next post for more Irish adventures.