Ireland Travels: Dublin

Let me say here that Marty, my hero, did ALL the driving. Dunquin has really narrow winding roads (see above) with spectacular views. When another car approaches, you pull over!

Yet it wasn’t easy being a passenger, sitting where a steering wheel should be, pumping imaginary brakes. The drive from Dunquin to our next destination involved more back roads, scenic yet scary with blind curves, speedy locals, lumbering farm equipment.

We stopped in lovely Buttevant just to stretch. I found a post office along with this adorable dog whose owner had forgotten him. The postmaster called the number on his dog tag but meanwhile he accepted our adoration with aplomb.

Next stop was the Rock of Cashel, an impressive medieval fortress and cathedral. A center of power since the 5th century, and where St. Patrick led baptisms of kings, it looms over the town of Munster. The round tower dates from 1100 while the cathedral was added between 1230 and 1270.

The tower is home now to a murder of crows.

I found all the carved adornments fascinating.

The enormity of space and time is humbling.

There are still burials here, but only one plot remains, for a local woman in her 80’s. Surprised to find some family here.

We headed for Kilkenny next, where the Butler Court’s rescue dog, Bo, made us feel immediately welcome.

Kilkenny is quite charming, chock full of little shops and pubs in the shadow of Kilkenny Castle, which we admired but did not tour.

We ate at Matt the Millers before finding Irish music at Cleere’s.

It was packed; Marty and I opted to head back to our room while Daisy stayed for the Irish dancer, poetry recitals, and more. On our way, though, we heard a fantastic fiddler in a nearly deserted pub. You just can’t go wrong in Ireland.

The cheery proprietor, Yvonne, took this shot of us before departure on June 18.

We headed to Waterford, and turned in our rental car. A train ride to Dublin lulled us to sleep until a chatty lady from Tipperary joined us for a lively conversation into the city. We landed at the Maldron Hotel around 5 PM, with a great view of activity in Smithfield Square, once a hub for horse traders.

Before dinner at Sparks, we found plenty of street art and murals in the surrounding blocks.

Graffiti by Aches for the Grey Area Project

Art by Subset

Art by Subset

Art by Subset

Art by Grey Area Project

Seen on our last trip, this mural adorns the same block as the Cobblestone, which calls itself ” a drinking pub with a music problem.”

These rousing trad sessions became Daisy’s last stop every night.

On June 19, we walked through the city to the Natural History Museum, fondly known as the Dead Zoo. The curious topiary was the first magnet.

The entire ground floor is devoted to Irish animals, birds, and insects. The skeletons of extinct Irish deer are enormous.

The taxidermy displays are quite narrative and almost animated.

Some have painted backdrops, like this ominous oil spill.

I’ll spare you my ton of photos. We departed for our next destination, a most-anticipated visit to my penpal’s house in Dublin 8!

Look who met us at her LUAS stop!

Mirjam and I became penpals through our shared interests of philately and snail mail on Instagram. What a blessing to meet her whole family and see her lovely home where she has a clever display of her postal treasures.

We all gabbed away into the night, sharing stories and comparing lives, discussing art and travels. Divine!

The following day led to more encounters with Dubliners. Passing through Trinity College, we came upon graduates spilling into the mobs of tourist, exactly a month after Daisy’s graduation.

We returned to the Dead Zoo to see the Mammals of the World collection, and I sketched while eavesdropping on a school group.

Drawing © Jamie Hogan

While Daisy was taking notes on the bee collection, Marty sat elsewhere and did this sketch.

Drawing © Marty Braun

We headed over to the National Gallery to meet up with Steve Simpson, an illustrator who Marty met years ago at ICON.

Steve Simpson and Marty Braun

A native of Manchester, England, Steve has called Dublin home for many years. We followed him back to his nearby studio to see his progress on a kids’ puzzle.

He’s got a thing for the Day of the Dead.

Thanks, Steve, for sharing some time with us!

Believe it or not, we went back a third time to the Dead Zoo. Had to see it all, til our eyeballs melted.

Next we met up with local illustrator, Holly Pereira, who led us on a walking tour of street art near Smithfield Square, including a stop at the luscious Damn Fine Print.

Holly, Marty, and Daisy at Damn Fine Print in Dublin 7

Holly did this mural for Stoneybatter’s recent festival.

Here’s another by Aches.

Mural by Aches

Mural by Clare Prouvost

There’s pride of place, and pride all over Dublin right now.

We ducked into the Glimmer Man for a pint as it began to rain. Thanks, Holly, for the fab tour!

Soon the clouds lifted.

The lights in Smithfield Square evoke Viking lore, which abounds in Dublin.

On Friday, Daisy and I lingered over exquisite books at the Chester Beatty Library. Sir Alfred Chester Beatty was an American engineer, collector, and philanthropist who bequeathed his immense private collection of rare books and manuscripts to Ireland. I love the detail of this composite bull from Delhi in the 1800’s.

This is an astrolabe, used in astronomy, an antique object that compresses time, space, and beauty.

Meanwhile, Marty was engaged in the mundane over at Mr. Tubs.

Drawing © Marty Braun

We rendezvoused in the gardens of St. Audoens Church for a picnic. It’s the only remaining medieval parish church in Dublin.

We returned for another delicious evening with Mirjam and her family. This time we opened our exquisite corpses, exchanged for months through the mail.

Jamie and Mirjam photo © Rosalin Gahan

photo © Mirjam Keune

The combined efforts are always a surprise. Thanks, Mirjam, for our fantastic evenings together!

On our last day in Dublin, Daisy wanted to revisit the Book of Kells. At the Trinity College Chapel, we spotted a bride.

And also a leprechaun…

We visited the National Gallery nearby for a cool show of landscapes in Irish art. And there’s always people watching.

A friendly museum guard suggested we visit Doheny & Nesbitt nearby, a classic pub that revived our spirits.

Later we made a final visit to the Cobblestone and packed it up.

Daisy left in the morning for Madrid, while Marty and I flew back to Boston. I sketched a zebra from the Dead Zoo while waiting to board. So hard leaving the wilds of Ireland!

Drawing © Jamie Hogan

This is my memory of Suir Road, a fairy tale swan with a party banner.

Pastel © Jamie Hogan

If you haven’t been to Ireland, what are you waiting for? We’ll be savoring this trip for years to come!

Now, back to the drawing board.