Moto: Fundy!

Posted by on Oct 2, 2015 in travels | 2 comments

This post wraps up our motorcycle adventures in Canada, I promise!

We returned to Nova Scotia via Tidnish, and rode along the Northumberland Shore in late afternoon sun, at one point parallel to a herd plodding towards their barn.

We stopped in Pugwash to buy a bottle of zin for later, and found out there were lodgings in Tatamagouche. Man, we lucked out with the Train Station Inn!


The rail cars offer accommodations but were already booked. We instead enjoyed a Victorian room in the main Inn, and a delicious dinner later in a dining car that ran on the Intercontinental Railway until 1972.

Housed in a former train station built in 1887, the Inn is chock full of antiques, railroad memorabilia, portraits of royalty, and friendly taxidermy.


We headed south the next day, a sunny Saturday swarming with other motorcyclists. We rode through Truro, Maitland, Scotch Village, Brooklyn, and Windsor before stopping for ice cream at a farm stand. A group of other riders did the same.


Just when we thought we couldn’t ride another mile, we came upon the sweet Sun Valley Motel.


With rain in the forecast, we hopped on the bikes without breakfast in the morning, towards a rendezvous with cousins on the Fundy Shore. Fell in love with this stout little lighthouse.


The landscape is rugged like Maine, but the Bay of Fundy stretches SO wide.


This sign always makes me feel welcome.


My grandfather built a cabin in 1934 in Young’s Cove, where he’d been visiting since a child to other camps in the area.


On this visit, it was closed up already for the season, but has been lovingly maintained and modernized over the years by my Uncle Roley and his family.

Here’s my cousin, Brian McDonough in 1959, with his grandfather and mine, Roland Bell Hogan, also known as Grumpy, on the steps of the Hogan camp.


Here’s me with cousins, Wanda McDonough, Brian’s widow, and their daughter, Mati, on those same steps.


We all stayed next door at the home of a mermaid named Jane, whose house sits between the Hogan camp and property now in Mati’s talented hands. She’s an internationally acclaimed artist and educator, used to teaching and creating in different locales. We found her hard at work in a make-shift studio in a house formerly on Jane’s property, that’s been hauled over and awaiting further renovation.

She hopes to finish off the house for future retreats. For now, it sits in the wild, catching sunset reflections and the whispers of birches.


We joined her folks and their family for a spectacular sunset.


The next day we ventured into Bridgetown to see our cousin, Nathalie Harlow, a fetching rug-hooker who showed us her latest work-in-progress, a collaborative friendship rug. Art and craft runs deep in my family!

We met up with more local kin at the Bistro East in Annapolis Royal.


Mary Hogan, Mati and Wanda McDonough, and Nathalie Harlow

It was back to the shore for another gathering. I made a pie with peaches from Wanda’s backyard.


While it was baking, I sat on the rocks to sketch where Hogan Brook meets the Bay of Fundy.


Mati’s stepdad, Mike, got a bonfire going. Plenty of driftwood in these parts; Fundy tides are legendary.

Mike’s sister, Patty, and her husband, John, brought ample good cheer to the party.



We stopped in at Mati’s place once more before heading out the next morning. Bravo for staking your claim in Novie, this location has potential in spades.

We visited the lighthouse in Hamilton Cove before heading south to Yarmouth.


The coastal route along Baie Ste-Marie has several grand churches. Traveling mercies are always appreciated.


For the first time, the ride grew cold. Still, we rode out to Cape Forshu before checking in at the Rodd Grand Yarmouth.

We boarded the Nova Star in the morning, a calm and clear day for sailing back to Maine.


The Yarmouth Light makes a striking sight upon departure.

We left Portland in the dark, so it was lovely to return at a golden time of day. Got a different perspective on Ram Island Light. From the Nova Star, it’s looks like it’s floating.

Portland’s pretty harbor gave us a warm welcome back.

We’d missed the last car ferry of the day, so headed to Russ and Maryanne’s, the best haven you could ask for. They treated us to a super meal and cozy dreams.


I sketched their cat, Jack, whose compact curl is beyond description.


No wonder Mary Anne is so inspired by them! And thanks to Islandport Press for noticing! Mary Anne’s catchy illustrations fill their 2016 poster calendar, Studio Cats.

Before catching the ferry home, we stopped at my Storybook Waters exhibit at the Portland Public Library to meet up with Mary Anne’s seniors in the Illustration Department at Maine College of Art. SO GOOD to see their faces again!

photo by Mary Anne Lloyd

photo by Mary Anne Lloyd

Now the bikes are back in the barn. It’s time to sharpen the pencils, haul out the scarves, and welcome October, my favorite month. I’ll be heading to Providence soon for the RISD Reads on October 10. Can’t wait!


  1. I had to wioe away a tear. Au revoir Nova Scotia. Beautiful blog post, Jamie.

  2. So beautiful the places and the people!

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