I’m thrilled to be working on a picture book for Tilbury House written by Eva Murray of Matinicus Island. I’ve been a fan of her writing since discovering her columns in local publications, and hearing her speak about Well Out to Sea, as part of the Peaks Island Lecture Series, a few years back. When editor Audrey Maynard asked if I was interested: a story set on an island? YES. By Eva Murray? DOUBLE YES.
It seemed only fitting to combine research with a family field trip. As an islander for 22 years, I have boundless curiosity about other islands, and what huge contrasts between Peaks and Matinicus! Peaks gets 16 ferries a DAY from Portland, a 15-minute trip one way. Matinicus gets 30 ferries a YEAR, a 2-hour trip one way. You can get there from here, with planning, cash, and some groceries.
The Maine State Ferry in Rockland, Maine has day parking, since we were heading one-way. The MV Everett Libby was our vessel.
We passed Owl’s Head Light during a break in the clouds.
Once we left the coast, I sketched another passenger who’s obviously done this trip before.
I drew Marty, too.
Matinicus is a rather flat island upon approach.
The harbor is all about lobstering.
Eva kindly gave us a lift to the Tuckanuck Lodge, owned by Bill Hoadley, a native of Nantucket who also spent many years living on Peaks.
It’s a charming old house filled with antiques of all shapes.
I enjoyed dialing on this rotary.
It’s no small luxury to simply curl up and read amidst the peace and quiet.
There’s no store on the island, so we brought ham, cheese, and apple juice. We set out in search of Eva’s Bakery, passing this sign along the way. Sums up the island ethos, a motto we could all use.
How can a kid resist the real jungle gym at the island school?
Gotta love public art.
We stopped to buy stamps to see what the post office is all about. The old Post Office burned down, and this PO is a couple of rooms in a house owned by the church, where the minister lives.
The real hub is Eva’s bakery, where her sweet goods draw a crowd.
Armed with her bread and cookies, we set off for a picnic, past colorful trees and billowing grass.
We marveled at snowy mosses while nibbling berries along the path.
Sweet reward for finding the Southwest Point:
The clouds parted and we found another trail to follow.
After a warm social hour at Eva’s, we returned to our lodge for a hearty dinner.
There are no street lights on Matinicus, so we strolled in the darkness.
Bill’s call to breakfast is opera music, a heavenly start to a clear Saturday. Each mug at the table features one of his beloved dogs. The current resident, Sandy, keeps Bill on his toes.
Here’s my sketch of 16-year old Emma, a snuffly pug who keeps fellow boarder, Peter, loyal company.
We headed to Markey Beach with our drawing supplies. We had all this beauty to ourselves.
I started a small pastel with a new travel set, but abandoned it in favor of beachcombing.
We climbed around to the breakers sheltering the harbor.
Now and then, the sound of a plane drew our attention. We’d be taking one of them back to Rockland the next day.
Meanwhile, Marty did this drawing.
It was pretty quiet over at the wharf.
We returned to the Tuckanuck for lunch and lolling about.
We decided to trek to the air strip, another scene I’ll be illustrating. Along the way is the church, which also doubles as a phone booth.
Wild flowers are abundant.
The narrow strip faces north towards Rockland.
With no planes in sight, we found another trail. A single fairy house is a good sign.
These are NOT blueberries, but rather an inedible feature of some forest lilies.
Plenty of flora to document.
Planes flew over now and then. Bill said the lobstermen were taking their paychecks to spend in Rockland.
We reached the shore again, and clambered over these cool rocks.
What’s the secret of this ancient boulder?
Back on the main road, stunning patches of dahlias, first brought to the island in 1903, dazzle the landscape.
Drowsy dog and dusty road by the PO..
We got more cookies at the bakery and checked out the cemetery, where stones are adorned with golden lichen.
We made it back to the lodge in time for lobster and more stories from Bill.
With fog rolling in, we browsed his ample library, finding this antique novelty from 1889.
Daisy documented a ton of startling illustrations, such as these.
With no electronic devices for distraction, we retired early and slept like logs. In the morning, after one last trip to the bakery for donuts, Eva’s husband, Paul, brought us to our plane, the cheerful Island Spirit.
This was the one piece of our trip that gave me anxiety.
Yet, it was by far the smoothest and best flight I’ve ever had.
Thanks to Penobscot Island Air pilot, Roger, the 12-minute trip was splendid. Look, there’s the boulder out on West Point.
More islands closer to the mainland:
Upon landing at Knox County Airport in Owl’s Head, we took a Schooner Bay taxi back to our car in Rockland. Heading back down Route 1, we stopped at a favorite landmark, which I included in my sketches for Eva’s book.
The truck is a great icon of that Waste Not ethic on Matinicus, and is the work of amazing sculptor Jay Sawyer. For the first time in our travels, his sculpture garden was OPEN. I sketched this scene.
He showed us what he’s working on in his shop. Seeing his art was the best way to complete our trip.
Now it’s back to work here, with our hearts full of Matinicus magic. Thanks to Eva for delicious hospitality and to the Tuckanuck for sweet dreams.
Howdy, Austin
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